Posts Tagged ‘Peru’

Cuzco here we come

Tuesday, May 6th, 2008

01052008(010).jpg So after another long bus ride across the Andean country side we arrived in Cuzco yesterday afternoon – and what a relief this was. The 7 hour bus ride across Peruvian highways that at times were as smooth as a bad gravel road was wearing thin – plus our butts were sore from sitting for so long ;) .

Cuzco really is the oasis we have been waiting for – its downtown region is really old and beautiful with a definate European feel. The icing on the cake for us is that we are sort of starting to feel better!

We have a couple of free days here to explore and get to know the city – which we are both looking forward to.

Last night consisted of locating an old English style pub, consuming a few lagers, and then heading up the road for a bowl of creamed tomato soup (all the soup over here seems to be creamed – its hard to get a simple chicken broth, etc).

Today we are going to head out to the local produce markets, which should be very interesting and present a few good photo opportunities I hope.

I have finally got access to a computer with a reasonable internet connetcion and the ability to upload pictures – so I have added a new gallerywith a small taste of the photos I have taken (these are all from my mobile so hope the quality is ok).

If I get some free time later this afternoon, I will try to work on getting some of the other photos put up, but this will take time as I need to re-size, etc.

Lake Titicaca home stay

Monday, May 5th, 2008

03052008(010).jpg So we are back in Puno now (which is located on the shores of lake Titicaca) after leaving yesterday morning for our homestay. We are both felling 100% on what we have been and hopefully the worst is behind us. We still need to be a little careful with our stomachs as they are still a little tender, but generally much better than they have been over the past 3-4 days.

Leaving the hotel yasterday we caught the local limo service – bicycle taxi’s. This was quite a ride with a dozen of us heading of in these peddle powered vehciles, and our drivers all competing to get us to the port first.

At the port we all jumped onto a local ferry which had been hired for us. The ferry left the port of Puno and headed out into Lake Titicaca. Close to Puno the water is covered in heaps of green algie, apparently cuased from the polution of Puno city. Lucky, the area is encircled by reids which trap most of the polluted water and keep the rest of Lake Titicaca fresh and cleen.

Our first stop was about 40mins from Puno on one of the floating read islands of the Uros. We stoped at one of the smaller islands, which hosts around 5 families. There we had time to look around and take a plesant ride on one of the reid boats with the children of the island, who sung us songs, and showed us how to eat the reids (basically you pull the reid out, take the bottom stork which is which, strip the skin off it, and begin chewing – it had no real flavour, but I wasn’t too keen on swallowing it as it had just come out of the lake!).

From the Uros island we continued on the ferry for about another hour until we got to our homestay community in Llachon (pronounced yachon). This was a lovley little community and very friendly people. Our host family, Jesus and Candelara where great. They had three children, one girl 10, and two boys 9 and 7.

The children were a little shy to begin with, but soon came out of their shells and entertained us for the afternoon.

On arriving we went with our host families for lunch, which consited of a lovley vegitable broth (containing potato, broad beens, onion, and carrot). This was followed by some fried home made cheese, boiled potatos, broad beens, and yams. While it was all very delisious, our stomachs could only handle so much – so the soup was the highlight, being very simple.

In the late afternoon we helped the families put nets out in lake titicaca to catch fish for breakfast. After fishing, we returned to our homes and were provided with traditional clothes to dress up in for dinner.

For dinner, we all met in the community house (in full traditional dress) and were treated to corn soup (which was good), followed by some pasta and rice (which was too heavy for us so we passed it up). After dinner a local music group perfomed – these guys were just learning, and this was somewhat obvious, but they put on a reasonable show anyway.

Breakfast this morning consisted of two types of bread rolls – the hollow type we seem to be encountering everywhere, and one that was a little sweeter and resembled a fried scone. This was then followed by a pancake, and finally fried fish (resembling white bait) and boiled potatos. I think Laura was happy to see the pancake, and the fried white bait was quite tasty.

We left our homestay families straight after breakfast and got back on the ferry to head to Taquile island, where we climbed the steep path to the top to see the awsome view – you could see the snow capped mountains in Bolivia from here (Peru and Bolivia share lake titicaca 60-40).

Finally a slow trip home back to Puno, where we are staying for tonight. Tommorrow we are off to Cuzco, which I think most of us are looking forward to – although it will be a 7-8 hour bus ride!

I think we are looking forward to Cuzco for number of reasons – it at a lower altitude, so things should be a little simpler, we are there for 3 days, so we can relax a little, and its meant to be a very beautiful city – so we cant wait.

We have tons of photos from the last week, but unfortunatly haven’t had access to a compter that will easily allow us to upload them. I might try to find another place later tonight, or prohaps in Cuzco.

Also please forgive the bad spelling. The keyboards over here are setup for european languages, and often the letters on the keys have been rubbed out, etc, making the job all that more difficult.

Colca Canyon and Home Stay

Saturday, May 3rd, 2008

01052008(024).jpg From Arequipa we headed to the Colca Canyon – passing through altitudes of almost 5,000m on the way.

When you get off the bus at these altitudes, you have to take it very slowly! Even very slow walking causes your head to spin and heart to thump. I thought it was convientient that they had roadside markets in places like this. Unknowing tourists such as ourselves jump off the bus in the high altitude, dizzy due to lack of oxygen, and puchase anything that is going before making it back to the bus to recover.

I only ended up with a Peruvian style beany – which has come to great use as its bloody cold up here at night.

We stayed in a small little town – the name evades me now – and ventured out to the local hot springs. These were great, but unfortunatly not sure they were the best idea for me, with a head ache and crock guts. I spent the rest of the night in bed, while the others ventured out to a local resturant with a dance show.

Yesterday, we set of early to see Andean Condors in the mid section of the Colca Canyon. This was amazing. There were about ten to twelve condors soring around in the canyon – defintly well worth the hour long bumpy bus ride.

After this we headed to a small village in the top end of the Colca Canyon for our first home stay. This was fun – or could have been except I was still pretty sick. Laura and I both enjoyed spending time with the family we were billeted out to. Our room was small, simple, but nice - a dirt floor, and hard beds. It was really interesting trying to communicate with our families who knew virtually no english, just spanish, and a local language (cant remember its name at the moment).

After an extreamly cold night, and poor sleep due to my need to use the wañu (bathroom) excessivly, we left our families for our next stop – Puno.

We arived in Puno this after noon, and have been out getting some simple supplies for our families at the next home stay (tommorrow night) on the shaws of lake titicaca. I imagine this will be another very cold night, but we are looking forward to it, and making the most of the comfortable hotel we are in tonight.

Its a pitty we are both a little on the sick side – while im worse than Laura, we are both feeling it. Hopefully it will all disapear once we come down from the altitue a little.

We made it to Arequipa

Wednesday, April 30th, 2008

01052008(035).jpg So we caught the overnight bus from Nazca last night. We were not expecting too much, but we were pretty suprised when we boarded the bus to find it was equiped with recliner seats – i’m not just talking about being able to recline the back of the seat, but a leg rest as well. It was pretty well equiped – not that is really any exchange for a real bed and pillow. While we did sleep, I was pretty restless but probably the best you could expect on a bus.

I get the feeling that the idea of having an overnight bus is mainly to combat the potential for car sickness. Nazca is about 500m above sea level, while Arequipa is over 2,500m – so there is a lot of mountain climbing involved, and this involves many many windy and often hairpin turns.

I think the best option was sleeping. It was a little nerve racking at times with the bus driver pumping ‘Black Betty’ from his sealed off compartment while driving (often faster than I think a bus should have been) through the mountain bends.

This was the first bus service we have been on where the in service movies were in english, so this was a little novelty. They also served a light breakfast of mini hot-dogs and highly sweetend black coffee on the bus – we found this a little weird but hunger got the better of us.

So today we ventured out into the streets of Arequipa and did a tour of a local monistry – which was pretty cool. Arequipa has a fantastic view of some nearby snow capped mountains, and an active volcano nearby. Great scenery.

We have noticed that the heigher we are going the cooler it is getting. We will be going over 4,500m tomorrow – our highest point, and have been warned that the next three days could be quite cool.

For me the altitude has been a little noticable. I think Laura is coping with it much better at the moment, but the next week or so will tell. We have been told to drink coca tea or eat coca sweats to help with the affects of altitude. The coca tea is not that different from green tea. We will also get the opertunity to get some coca leaves to brew our own tea while on the home stay.

We have our first (of two) home stays in two days time, so we are looking forward to that.

Anyway, probably wont be near internet for the next few days, so will try to write more once we get back into civilisation :)

Peru here we come

Tuesday, April 29th, 2008

28042008(026).jpg It’s been a few days since we have had a chance to grab a seat in front of a computer (probably a good thing), so I will try to fill you all in on what we have been up to in the last few days.

We started our Intrepid tour of Peru on Friday. We all met in a small hotel in Miraflores (a suburb of Lima). There are 13 of us in the group, and we all get along really well. The group is a really well balanced mix of people and ages – mostly Australians, and some Poms.

The first day comprised a short walking tour of Lima, which took us to the San Francisco church and the catacombs underneath. Laura and I had already seen the catecombs during our week in Lima, so passed and instead decided to check out the church, which was closed when we visited the first time.

One thing we noticed imediatly (on attempting to make our local payment), was they hate, and will bluntly reject any US notes that are even slightly damaged. This is a real pain, as the banks and ATM’s dish them out freely. The result was we got stuck with a couple of spare US notes that are very difficult to pass off to anyone. Oh well… lessons learned. I’m sure the europeans won’t be as picky.

Anyway, we left Lima in the afternoon and headed south for Pisco. Pisco was recently (back in August) devostated by an earthquake, and around 600 people were killed. Unfortunatly the city is still in rouin so there is not too much to take in here (from a tourists perspective).

Pisco is the city that gives its name to Perus national drink, the Pisco Sour (as you may have read, we have enjoyed a few of these). Pisco is made out of grapes grown in the Pisco region. Its essentially a distilled wine, and varies in potency from regular wine at about 12% to a very hughly distiled alcohol at about 60-70%. Pisco sour is made with a form of Pisco that sits somewhere in the middle, and is mixed with lemon or lime juice, sugar syrip, and egg white, which is all blended together. The egg white gives it a frothy head. Its then topped with wither bitters, or more commonly cinnamon. Its rather refreshing on a warm day. Traditionally its intended as an aparatif, but is commonly drunk at any time (by us at least :) )

From Pisco, we took a short bus ride down to the coast – passing a number of fish processing factories on the way (pin pointing the source of the strong fishy smell in the area). From a small coastal port we took a fast boat out to the Paracas islands. These are a set of small islands just off the coast which host heaps of bird life and sea lion colonies. On the larger of the islands was a huge candelarbra figure etched into the side of the mountain face – this was pretty impressive to see, and gave us a tast for what we could expect later in Nazca.

From the coastal port we began heading inland for Nazca. The landscape in this area is essentially barron desert. Its very arrid, and not many features except the odd tree, and mountains on either side.

We stopped in at a desert oasis on the way to Nazca for lunch. This was litterly exactly how the cartoons picture them – it’s the middle of the desert, sand dunes for miles, then as you come over the top of one, you can see the other side, and instead of more sand, there is a small lake and some lush greenery with a hotel and some shops surrounding the lake.

We had the option to sand board here, but considering the head, and my previous experiences with large sand dunes I decided against it, considering we had a further 3 hours to Nazca. We didn’t really feel like sitting on the bus full of sand. It would have stuck to everything considering how hot it was.

So we settled for a light lunch, a few cervasas (beers), and a walk round the oasis instead.

We headed off to Nazca after lunch. Again more desert that was only broken up as we approached Nazca, and had to start going through some small mountains. This was pretty exciting after a few hours of desert. Comming into Nazca, we stopped at a roadside tower on the Nazca plains to observe some of the famous Nazca lines. Not a great view but gave us a taste.

Our hotel in Nazca was pretty nice – air con, pool, etc. It’s actually been the best so far.

Last night we headed out for a meal and a local Peruvian show, which featured some native dancing, as well as an Andean band, which was pretty great. I had the Ceveche – a Peruvian specialty of raw fish marinated in lemon/lime juice and viniger (which sort of cooks the fish on the outside, and presumably kills any nasties?). It was quite nice – would definatly have it again.

Today we took a (very small) plane (3 pasengers) to fly out over the Nazca plains to see the lines from the air. This was great, a little nerve racking at times, and neausiating, but definatly worth it. Just as we were about to head back, the lady in the front (also from our tour group) popped… projectile vomiting all over the side window and panel in front of her. The plane was definatly too small for this. The smell nearly set us off in the back seat, but we managed to hold it together and got back in one piece – although our stomachs were a little sturred up.

Tonight were waiting for the overnight bus (about 11pm) to pick us up and take us to Araquipa. This is where we will start getting into the altitude, so light meals tonight and no grog…

Anyway, looking forward to whats to come.

Love you all