Posts Tagged ‘Peru’

Peru in review

Friday, May 23rd, 2008

Our time in Peru has come to an end – we are moving on and leaving behind some awesome memories and great new friends.

I thought it would be good to try and review and reflect on our time here in Peru, and ponder some of the highlights, and the lowlights of what we have seen (in some cases the highlights and lowlights run together).

Initially landing in Lima we were a little concerned about what we had got ourselves into – the airport, as with many big cities is surrounded by poorer districts. So our first impression of Peru was a wild taxi ride through the slum areas of Lima. We both looked at each other and said – ¨This is what we wanted!¨.

Where we stayed in Lima ended up not being so bad. Miraflores and Barranco were probably the nicer suburbs of Lima.

Our Intrepid travel group would have to be listed as a highlight, along with our leader Augusto. We made great friends with all in the group – and hope to catch up with many of them along the remainder of our trip, and also back in Australia when we return.

Pisco was probably the first lowlight (after the Hotel Espuranza in Lima). Unfortunately the place had been devastated by an earthquake months earlier, so there was really not much to do or see there. Lucky it was only a night. The place also smelt quite strongly of fish, a side affect of being a seaside community I guess.

The desert Oasis and Nazca were definatly highlights. While the flight over the Nazca lines was a little scary, observing the lines from the air was defiantly worth every second in that small plane.

Another observation was that after Lima, the general quality of the Hotels improved. We were expecting Lima to be the best, and things to go down hill from there, however this was almost the opposite – the exceptions being the very small remote towns where we had on very basic hotels, but these even stacked up to the Lima accommodation in their own ways.

The overnight bus ride from Nazca to Arequipa was, while exciting and reasonably comfortable, probably a lowlight due to the scariness of driving at night through the Andes – feeling like the bus is going very fast around some of the sharp corners, or overtaking through corners was not a great experience, and it was better to be asleep so you just couldn´t see what was going on.

Arequipa was a lovely city, we all wished we had some more time there to explore. It was the first nice city we had been too. While it was at altitude (which had its way of affecting all of us), it was lovely.

On the topic of altitude, I think I could list this on my lowlights. I’m not certain if it was the altitude, the food, or the coca that made me ill, but I defiantly cannot face coca anymore.

Coca, Coca tea, and Coca lollies are meant to assist with the affects of altitude. So as the altitude increased, our consumption of coca products did as well. Initially it was great, but as I became ill, I think associated my sickness with the Coca (an I don´t doubt that in some small way it may have contributed). The meer smell of coca now makes me feel nausious!

Seeing the Andes close up was defiantly a highlight – these mountains are so amazing, its an incredible experience.

The Colca Canyon was both a highlight and a lowlight for me. This is were I first became sick, putting a dull spin on everything I did. Shivay, the first small town we arrived to in the Colca Canyon was nice – simple but nice. I enjoyed the hot springs there as much as someone with an ill stomach and pounding head could.

Seeing condors flying in the canyon was defiantly on the highlight list. This was amazing. Personally we think that condors are rather ugly birds, but they defiantly make up for it when they are soring through the canyon – very spectacular.

Sabyu, again is listed as both a highlight and a lowlight. For me, being ill while on the first home stay was difficult, and made it hard to enjoy the experience – although I did defiantly try. And in retrospect this home stay was nowhere near as well prepared or organized as our home stay near lake Titicaca.

Puno was alright. I would not list it as either a highlight or a lowlight – it was just part of the trip. Lake Titicaca, and the Uros islands was defiantly a highlight. This was amazing to see and experience. Our local guide ended up being a little bit of a dud and no one really liked him from our group. As I mentioned, the home stay near lake Titicaca was great. We all though that we could have probably done with only the one home stay – two home stays 1 day apart was a big ask especially for those of us who weren´t so well.

Cuzco was defiantly on the highlight list – we all loved the free time we had here, and the city it self was beautiful. We also found what I believe to be the best eatery in all of Peru – Peki´s. This was a tiny sandwich bar about 100m from our hotel in a narrow street on the way to the main square. We discovered this place early on and the news spread like wild fire through our group – great fresh sandwiches (actually toasted rolls), and burritos!. Pekis was a rest bite for us weary travelers from the continuous Peruvian food.

While i’m on the topic of food, I might as well cover off our favorites that we encountered on the way.

Yes we did try Ginnie Pig – it was in small pieces and had been fried, so it was rather like eating small chicken wings. It wasn’t bad. Not really sure what it tasted like but I went back for seconds.

We also sampled Alpaca – although the Peruvian medium rare appears to be the same as all their other ways of cooking red meat – over done and a little tough. It was nice, but just tough.

Laura’s favorite, that she discovered early on was a dish called Lomo Saltado – basically a stir fry containing rice, beef strips, onion, red pepper, and chips.

Ceviche was another dish I attempted – raw fish prepaired in vinegar and lemon juice. Not bad, but I only had it the once.

Out of everything on our time in Peru, Machu Picchu was what we were waiting to see – and we weren’t disappointed. It was fantastic – everything we had hoped it would be and more.

Our time in the Amazon was also brilliant – we both loved it and wished we had a little more time to spend there just to chill out and relax.

So all in all a fantastic trip that we will remember for ever.

More Peruvian pictures

Monday, May 19th, 2008

Now that we are in Argentina, we have access to our own laptop – so I have had the chance to resize some of our pictures and add them the the Peruvian Highlights tour gallery.

You can check out this gallery and the new pictures here.

Welcome to the Jungle

Thursday, May 15th, 2008

14052008(007).jpg From the comfort of Cuzco, we headed our on an AreoCondor flight to Puerto Maldonado in the Amazon Jungle.

While being back close to sea level was a relief, the temperature had also increased considerably along with the humidity, and the number of mosquitoes – although, none of these were quite as bad as we had expected.

After leaving the airport at Puerto Maldonado we were picked up by our Jungle Lodge transfer service – a Mercedes Benz bus without windows, and wooden seats with Jungle themes painted down the sides. The bus took us into Puerto Maldonado – a bit of a slum really, with not much there, and very dirty. Apparently the main mode of transport is the motorbike, with hundreds of these packing the dirty streets. While helmets did appear to be quite common, this was only the case for the drivers, with the passengers (often another 2 or 3 people) never seen to be wearing them.

We had a quick tour of the local market in Puerto Maldonado, which showed us some of the local Jungle produce, and one of the specialties of the area, the Brazil nut – which were quite nice.

From Puerto Maldonado we caught a slim boat down the river 2 hours to eventually arrive at the Ecoamazonia Lodge – our accommodation for the next two nights.

The lodge was very well set out and very comfortable – two hammocks in every room. The rooms were very open to the outside but sealed well with flyscreens – not a single mosquito bite the whole time :) .

They also had a very nice bar, which offered beer and cocktails till 10pm, when all power was turned off to the lodge – literally lights out.

During the first afternoon, we had a short trek around Monkey Island – so called due to the local inhabitants. Our guide took a ruck sack full of banana’s and oranges to entice the locals down from the trees, which worked a treat. Very shortly after emptying his bag onto a bench the monkeys swarmed in for the feed – allowing us to observe them at very close proximity.

It was a pretty cool experience, although I think Laura would have preferred them to be on the other side of a fence or similar – a little too close for her comfort.

One of our group ended up with a monkey on his back – and after a few photos the monkey was finally lead off to a nearby tree – quite funny for those of us without the monkey on our backs!

Later that evening we took a small boat out onto the river in search of cayman (local alligators). We spotted only a few small ones – again something I think that made Laura happy – she was not too fond of the small boats, and didn’t really enjoy the idea of looking for alligators in the dark.

The next day we had a very early start to begin a 7.5km trek through a patch of local jungle – this was made a little more difficult by the fact that we had to wear gumboots due to the mud in certain sections.

At the half way mark there was an ‘observation tower’ – actually a huge tree with steps built into it. Not being fond of heights, I though I would just go a little way up, but ended up at the top – with nothing to see but the tops of trees swaying in the wind!

The return trip entailed a 3km boat paddle which was pretty tough in the heat of the day. By the time we go back to the lodge we were all pretty hungry and ready for a siesta!

Last night was completed in the bar enjoying a few cocktails and beers.

Today we left the lodge and headed back to Puerto Maldonado to catch a flight back to Lima. We arrived in Lima this afternoon – completing our Peruvian Experience!

So one to the next part of our journey.

Machu Picchu

Sunday, May 11th, 2008

10052008(001).jpg We got off to a very early start this morning – 4.30am, breakfast at 5, and on the bus up to Machu Picchu at 5.30.

The bus departs from the bus station in Aquas Calientes and heads down a narrow road into the jungle before crossing the river to begin the step and windy assent up the Machu Picchu mountain. Both Laura and I are not the best with heights, and buses driving along shear cliff faces is one thing we both battle for the isle seat on. Laura scored the window seat on the way up – were not certain if the partial daylight made the trip better or worse, but we made it to the top in one piece, although a there were a few nifty manuevors on the way up as two buses passed each other on the often very narrow track.

We were at the top at about 6am, and there was already a queue to get into the park. After entering, we walked/climbed our way to one of the higher areas on the southern side of the city where we could look down over the ruins.

Reaching the top you are immediately struck by the awesome site of the Machu Picchu city ruins – its pretty much all you expect it to be, but being there is just so much more exciting.

After many photos – post card perfect – we began our tour with our leader through the Machu Picchu ruins – this lasted for probably a good hour and a half to two hours and was very interesting.

The lawns of Machu Picchu are continually manicured by the Alpaca’s that roam freely there – apparently they are the owners of the site now and have completely free rain.

We took heaps of photos – although im sure these will not do the place justice – its something that simply has to be seen to fully appreciate.

Anyway, I have added some of the photos I took on my mobile to the gallery, so it should give you a small taste until I can upload more.

After our tour we had the option of climbing Wayna Picchu – the small, but very steep mountain that is on the northern side of the Machu Picchu site (Machu Picchu is actually the name of the mountain on the southern side of the site) – although this looked a little too dicey for us, so we decided to grab something to eat (a mistake as a chicken sandwich cost 20 soles, the equivalent of a decent 3 course dinner in most Peruvian cities!). Anyway, after a small snack we decided to just sit on one of the terraces and absorb the surroundings for a while (and pluck up the courage to take the bus back down in full daylight – I scored the window seat this time!).

This afternoon was pretty much consumed by the train ride back to Ollantaytambo, and then a bus ride back to Cuzco and civilisation again.

I must say, Cuzco is an absolutely lovely city - possibly one our favorite of the tour so far – and its great to be back. We have another free day here in Cuzco tomorrow, and then we head off for the Jungle after that for two nights, and that will conclude out tour.

We are looking forward to the Jungle, and have had a very small taste of it travelling to Machu Picchu today.

The country side here is amazing. In the Jungle (about 2,000m) its warm and humid, yet the tops of the mountains (some of which go over 5,000m) have snow caps. Its weird to be in the warmth of the Jungle and look up and see snow on top of the mountains.

On the road to Machu Picchu

Saturday, May 10th, 2008

09052008(011).jpg So we left Cuzco yesterday afternoon headed for Ollantaytambo, a small rural town which is part of Cuzco province, and a couple of hours out of Cuzco city.

On the way we passed through the sacred valley and visited the large markets in Pisac – again buying a few souvenirs. We then continued on to another small rural town where we had some local interaction. We were met at the local petrol station by a local (guide) on a push bike. We followed him through a number of back streets in our bus and eventually arrived at a local pottery factory.

One of the local families worked at the pottery factory and made various types of pottery – from cups, tea pots, plates, etc. All vary nice but probably little fragile to transport!

After the pottery factory, we had lunch with a local family – this consisted of an Andean grain soup with potatoes, which was very nice, and was followed by salad and a dish made of a different type of potato and mince (they love their potato’s over here, and have over 1000 varieties!).

After the meal we went to what was probably the highlight of the day – the local chocolate factory. Here we watched a demonstration of how the locals make chocolate, starting with the dried coco beans, then roasting them, then simply combining the roasted coco beans with equal measure of raw sugar and passing it through a grinder! Fantastic! Needless to say we purchased a sample – it was great, and you couldn’t get fresher :) .

On the way out of town – heading for Ollantaytambo – we stopped at a local pub/bar where we saw how the locals make Chicha (corn beer). The process was interesting, the result not so great. We sampled two varieties, essentially both the same base, but one was mixed with strawberries which changed it from a yellow colour to a mild pink. I think I will stick to the local lagers, which are surprisingly good!

Arriving in Ollantaytambo you can’t help but notice the massive mountains on either side. These are so high the clouds often cover their peaks. Embedded in the side of some of the mountains were some Inca ruins.

This morning we spent a couple of hours exploring these ruins – a preparation for Machu Picchu tommorrow.

So this afternoon we caught the train from Ollantaytambo to Aquas Calientes (literaly translated it means hot waters). Aquas Calientes is not that exciting… Its essentially a town that has been built as a staging point for tourists on their way to and from Machu Picchu. It is cute in its own way, but as the only way to get here is by train (or walk the Inca Trail), everything is expensive!

So tomorrow we will be getting up early (5am) to have breakfast and leave by 5.30am. We will be up at Machu Picchu by about 7am, apparently in time to see the last of the sun rise (if the clouds keep away… not too promising at the moment!). We are then pretty much free to spend about 4 or 5 hours exploring Machu Picchu before getting back on the bus to Aquas Calientes, then getting the train and bus back to Cuzco, where we will spend the night, and have another free day before heading for the Jungle!

Once in Cuzco, I really hope to be able to get some more of our pictures posted up, as we have heaps.